I had brunch at Wagamama but one thing irked me (2024)

When I think of Wagamama, chicken katsu curry and ramen spring to mind, and queuing for a table because it doesn't take bookings, which is unusual for a big chain. The announcement that the Asian-inspired restaurant would be introducing brunch instantly made my ears prick up.

And a peek of the intriguing menu made my eyes widen. I'm always up for something different so I set aside some time last Sunday (August 4) to visit West Bridgford. Only 22 Wagas across the country are trialling brunch, West Bridgford is one of them but Nottingham city centre isn't.

Reaching Central Avenue just before 11am, we notice the Portello Lounge is heaving, Gilt looks busy and there's very few spare seats outside Caffe Nero. Would we get a table? It doesn't bode well.

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I'm surprised when we open the door at Wagamama to find no queue and less than a handful of customers inside. In a blink of an eye we're greeted, seated and the waitress has run through the menu.

There's quite a wide choice. Key breakfast items bacon and sausage feature but with an Asian makeover in bao buns - the fluffy steamed buns that remind me of clouds. An interesting combo but not for today, thank you. I'm not fussed about gyozas on this occasion either, the dumplings with duck, chicken or vegetables, and I'm not fancying ramen or yaki soba noodles this early in the morning.

I had brunch at Wagamama but one thing irked me (1)

The menu has a 'big breakfast' with bacon, sausages and eggs that come either fried, poached or tea-stained. I'm not convinced that the Asian twist on a classic full English works with the spiced marbled eggs and teriyaki mushrooms.

I do like the sound of the tamago toast, however, a Japanese version of French toast made with buttery brioche and topped with cherry compote and matcha and ube ice cream. Another one for sweet-toothed brunch munchers is a croissant dipped in matcha or strawberry-flavoured chocolate.

It barely seems worth pointing out that the statutory avocado on toast is there as it is on every single brunch menu across the nation. The day I discover a brunch menu with no avo on toast I'll let you know.

I had brunch at Wagamama but one thing irked me (2)

There's a banana katsu waffle but with toffee sauce and miso caramel ice cream it sounds cloyingly sweet. The chicken katsu waffle is a bit of me though, so that's the one.

The coffee we've ordered is out in no time at all. While the chain isn't renowned for coffee, the beans from London-based Grind make a decent cup. It only takes a few minutes more for my husband's omuretsu to arrive. The egg white omelette is one of the healthiest items on the menu.

He's gone for the veggie version which is filled with savoy cabbage, leeks and shiitake mushrooms, and topped off with spring onion, rings of red chilli and a liberal garnish of fresh coriander leaves. After a couple of mouthfuls he gives it a drizzle of chilli oil which infinitely improves the flavour.

Meanwhile I'm waiting, and waiting and waiting some more. I've drained my coffee cup, and rather than stare at my hubby eating, I read the drinks menu to pass the time.

I had brunch at Wagamama but one thing irked me (3)

If you're after a cheeky brunchtime co*cktail how about Breakfast in Tokyo with papaya gin and yuzu sherbet, or Spicy Mary with soy, teriyaki and spices instead of Worcestershire sauce and celery? I'm a rubbish day drinker (I'd be spark out by 2 O'clock) so I stick to one of the new 'mindful' drinks.

The unusually flavoured plum and orange juice mocktail has a fiery ginger kick and for extra vim the rim is dusted with chilli and lime salt, making it a delicious invigorating drink if there ever was one.

I know this 'serve it when it's ready' regime applies generally to the Wagamama menu but I'm not a fan of our brunches coming out at different times. I'm getting hangry and irked. It turns out to be a wise move ordering a side of side of bang bang hash browns so at least there's something to nibble on.

I had brunch at Wagamama but one thing irked me (4)

My order finally arrives - it's taken around eight minutes after the omelette first appeared. It might not seem long in the grand scheme of things but when you're starving and watching someone else eat, believe me it feels like a lifetime. By now Gregg has almost finished his omelette so it's my turn to eat alone.

The panko-covered chicken is smothered in lashings of delicious tangy katsu sauce - there's plenty of it. The waffle edges which aren't coated in the sauce are nicely crisp. The garnish of spring onion and pickled mooli adds crunch and freshness. My 'hanger' subsides and dare I say it, this is even better than chicken katsu curry.

However, the real showstopper for me is the hash browns. The glistening golden half moons are coated in firecracker sauce and slithers of red chilli for a double spice whammy. Utterly delicious... I could eat these by the bucket load.

Wagamama trialled breakfast once before at a couple of restaurants in 2015 but nothing ever came of it. As brunch goes it comes to £44 with a tip, so it's not cheap and there was no real atmosphere with the restaurant so empty. I hope this time around it is more successful, if only for the purely selfish reason I need those hash browns in my life.

We had:

Americano £3 x 2

Spiced plum and orange £6

Bang bang hash browns £5.50

Chicken katsu waffle £13.50

Yasai omuretsu £9

Total with tip £44

I had brunch at Wagamama but one thing irked me (2024)
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